Tasmania: A 17-Day Family Reset

Slow traveling through Hobart, Bruny Island, and the Huon Valley with a toddler in tow.

Tasmania with a Toddler: What Surprised Us Most

Tasmania is often sold as a rugged wilderness for hikers, but our 17-day journey through the south-east taught us it is actually the ultimate “Slow Travel” playground for parents. Here are the four things that truly caught us by surprise:

  • Wildlife isn’t just “out there,” it’s on your doorstep: We didn’t need to go deep into the bush; the wildlife came to us. From the white wallabies grazing right outside our Bruny Island cabin to the wombats roaming the grass on Maria Island, our toddler was constantly mesmerized by nature in its rawest form.

  • The “Micro-Adventure” Reset: We expected the big landmarks to be the highlights, but the real magic was in the quiet moments—like a 30-minute stop at a roadside creek in the Huon Valley or watching the sunset over the Southern Ocean from our deck.

  • A “Front Row Seat” to the Universe: We were shocked to find that “Slow Travel” in Tassie sometimes means looking up. Seeing the Aurora Australis explode into purple and green over the ocean on a random Tuesday night on Bruny Island was a core memory we never expected to make.

  • Toddlers and “Tassie Pace” go hand-in-hand: Whether it was the early 3:30 AM start to our journey or the sleepy vibes of Geeveston, the state’s relaxed pace felt like it was built for family travel. Locals weren’t bothered by the chaos; they just offered tips on where to find the local platypus.

Tasmania: The 17-Day Reset at a Glance

Chapter 1: Hobart Landing

The 3:30 AM Reality & Finding Our Feet

Our 17-day journey didn’t start with a quiet mountain view; it started with a sharp 3:30 AM alarm and the challenge of getting Kailani up and moving while the world was still pitch black. Despite the ungodly hour, our Jetstar flight was a win—the onboard breakfast was actually delicious and kept us all fueled for the arrival.

Once we landed in Hobart, we were met with glorious January sunshine and a quick reality check: the city’s hills are no joke when you’re pushing a pram. We spent our first 48 hours “finding our feet” at the Salamanca Markets and hunting down the best coffee in the city to offset the early start. It was the perfect, slightly caffeinated introduction to the Tassie pace.

For everything you need to know about navigating Hobart with little ones, check out our Hobart with Kids guide.

Jomana and Kailani walking through the Salamanca Market in Hobart, Tasmania
Mother and baby wombat foraging together on Maria Island, Tasmania

Chapter 2: Maria Island - A Day of Wombats & Fossil Cliffs

On January 18th, we took a break from the Hobart hills and headed to Maria Island—a place where cars aren’t allowed and the wildlife clearly didn’t get the memo about being shy. We took an early morning shuttle bus from Brook Street Pier and made the 90-minute drive from Hobart to Triabunna Wharf to catch the ferry to Maria Island. Grabbing a coffee on the wharf and breakfast on board! 

Navigating the ferry with a toddler was surprisingly easy, and we spent the day walking the trails including Fossil Cliffs and Painted Cliffs. All up, we hiked 19km – and estimate that Kailani walked about 15km all on her own…being carried the other 4km!  The real highlight for Kailani? The wombats. They were casually grazing as if we weren’t even there. It was a perfect 1:1 ratio of education and play, and a reminder that the best days often require a bit of extra travel to find the quiet.

Want the full breakdown? Read our Maria Island family day trip guide.

After the hills of Hobart, Bruny Island felt like a deep breath for the whole family. We swapped the city streets for a quiet cabin deck and a view that stretched all the way to the Southern Ocean.

Our days became a slow rhythm of hunting for the famous white wallaby—who made a star appearance right outside our door—and exploring the island’s rugged edges. However, not every moment was a postcard. We arrived at “The Neck” lookout around 9:00 PM, only to be met with a classic toddler timing: a mandatory toilet stop before the ascent.

Let’s just say the “environmentally friendly” drop toilets at the base were a little too organic for Kailani’s liking. Jomana took one for the team, getting a full face of that unforgettable “sturdy” aroma while assisting her, which definitely added a bit of chaos to our sunset arrival!

But the payoff was worth the olfactory trauma. Seeing the Aurora Australis flicker into life over the water on a random Tuesday night was a core memory we never expected to make. It was a reminder that when you slow down, the universe (and the toilets) always has a surprise for you.

For the full Bruny Island experience, check out our Bruny Island family guide.

Murray and Kailani watching the Aurora Australis from Bruny Island, Tasmania

Chapter 4: The Green Heart & The Huon Valley

Leaving the coast behind, we headed into the lush, rolling hills of the Huon Valley. If Hobart was the “finding our feet” phase and Bruny was the “reset,” the Huon Valley was where we truly embraced the Slow Travel life.

We based ourselves in the quiet town of Geeveston, where the local pace is dictated by the seasons and the morning fog. For Kailani, this was the chapter of discovery. We spent our mornings hunting for the elusive platypus in the local creek (patience is a toddler’s greatest challenge!) and our afternoons puddle-jumping through the local parks after the soft Tassie rain.

Between the world-class cider sheds and the towering trees of the Tahune AirWalk, the Huon Valley gave us exactly what we were looking for: space to breathe and time to notice the small things—like the way the light hits the apple orchards at dusk.

Kailani walking the boardwalk trail to Lake Esperance in Hartz Mountains National Park, Tasmania

Chapter 5: From Subterranean Art to Sunday Markets

We returned to Hobart for our final few days feeling like different people from those who stumbled off that 3:30 AM flight. The hills didn’t feel quite so steep, and our “Slow Travel” rhythm was finally second nature.

Our last days were a relaxed selection of Hobart’s finest. We spent a day at MONA, where the architecture alone is enough to blow your mind, and Kailani found the “Poo Machine” infinitely more fascinating than the fine art—a total win for toddler engagement!

We also wandered through the Farm Gate Market on Sunday morning and made the trip out to Westerway Raspberry farm to spend a sun-drenched arvo picking our own berries. There’s nothing quite like the taste of a Tasmanian berry still warm from the sun. As we watched the sun set over the Derwent River one last time, we realised we weren’t just taking home memories; we were taking home a slower, better way of moving through the world.

View of Hobart's working waterfront and marina from Hotel Grand Chancellor, Tasmania
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